Free Jasmine lacy edging crochet pattern

In this article, you’ll find detailed instructions on how to make a gorgeous lacy edging crochet pattern, plus videos. If you want to know how to make a standalone border or want charts, check out the PDF pattern here.

Free Jasmine lacy edging crochet pattern pin

About the Jasmine lacy edging crochet pattern

You have a simple project that needs a border to make it go “wow” and you are looking at all the lacy borders out there.

What do most of them have in common? They are worked one row at a time, around the whole object.

What if you just want to add a border to certain sides? What if you want to build up the border sideways?

There are not many patterns for build-as-you-go borders. I don’t know why, but I found at least an interesting one a few years ago.

It was a scanned image of a chart from a book.

This image had been added by someone to the internet and it lived for a long while on Pinterest.

I wish I knew what book it came from, but it was cropped and there was no information regarding sources (this is why you shouldn’t upload to Pinterest stuff that you don’t have the right to upload, nor the source to cite).

I used it to make an edging to a simple shawl that I’d knit. It got lots of compliments and love and, most of all, questions about the border.

original edging m

Sadly, I couldn’t share the pattern because 1. it doesn’t belong to me and 2. I had no idea where it came from.

So I came up with my own version of a lacy edging similar from afar to this edging.

My version is only inspired, but doesn’t copy the original.

It consists of 4 rows per motif instead of 6, uses puff stitches, not bobbles, includes extended stitches and the motifs attach to each other to create a continuous tape, as opposed to the original, where the motifs were independent.

I hope you can see the differences and appreciate this new pattern.

A PDF version of this pattern is available in the shop and it includes charts for both the border and a standalone tape that you can work up and attach to any project at a later time.

The reason I don’t add my charts to the free versions of patterns that I post on the blog is because I don’t want them to have the same fate as the pattern I was inspired by. If you buy the PDF version of this pattern, please respect my work and don’t post the charts on Pinterest.

Observations

  • This pattern is written using US terms. For UK terms, please buy the PDF.
  • This border is created of individual motifs that are worked in rows, back and forth.
  • For details regarding stitch placement, please consult the charts on page 7.
  • Instructions in [square brackets] are repeated the number of times mentioned after the brackets.
  • Instructions in {curly brackets} are worked in the same stitch or space.
  • For a more visual demonstration of stitch placement, check out the video or the diagrams available in the PDF version of the pattern.

Gauge

This pattern can be worked with any yarn and hook combination while using loose tension. For lace-weight yarn worked with a 4 mm hook, you will need 18 Dc stitches and 9 rows to make a 10 cm by 10 cm square (4” by 4”).

Size

The length of the border will depend on what you need it for. Work until you are satisfied with the length.

You can cram more motifs in the same length, making the border more ruffled, or you can spread out the motifs, to make the lace more prominent.

When working with lace-weight yarn, the length of a motif is about 8 cm or 3.5″. The height of a motif is about 5 cm or 2″ at the highest point.

When using thicker yarn with a larger hook, the motifs will be longer and taller.

If you use the same hook, chances are that the motifs will have the same size, but they will look less lacy.

jasmine lace border crochet pattern in two different types of yarn - mohair and smooth acrylic

Materials

For a lacy edge, use lace-weight yarn. For a thicker edge, you can use any other yarn.

Yarn lengths will vary depending on the length of the border.

For a single motif in lace-weight yarn you will need about 3-4 meters of yarn. For thicker yarns, you will need more per motif.

For lace-weight yarn, use a 3- or 3.5-mm hook for an airy border.

For other yarns, use the hook recommended for your yarn.

Abbreviations

  • Ch – chain;
  • Dc – double crochet stitch;
  • EDc – extended double crochet stitch: YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through one loop on hook, repeat [YO and pull through 2 loops on hook] 2 times;
  • MR – magic ring;
  • Pc – picot – Ch3, Sl St into back bump of first Ch;
  • Puff – puff stitch – repeat [YO and insert hook into the St, pull up a loop] 4 times, YO and pull through all 9 loops on hook, Ch1 and pull on the chain to close the top of the puff;
  • Sc – single crochet stitch;
  • Sk – skip;
  • Sl St – slip stitch;
  • Sp – space – might be used to denote a chain space or a space on the edge of the object you are adding the border to;
  • St – stitch;
  • YO – yarn-over.

Videos for the lacy edging crochet pattern

Right-handed video

jasmine lace edging button

Left-handed video

jasmine lace edging button left

Border instructions

This border is made along the edge of a previously made object.

You will decide on the distance between the points where the motif is attached to the base (denoted Sp in the instructions), but I recommend leaving about the height of a Dc stitch between these points.

The first motif will not be connected to anything, it will be made individually. All subsequent motifs are connected to each other.

Start with a slip knot on your hook.

R1. Sc into the first edge Sp, Ch3, Sc into next edge Sp, turn

R2. 6EDc into the first Ch3 Sp, turn

R3. Ch2, Puff into first St, repeat [Ch2, Puff in next St] 5 times, Ch2, Sc into next edge Sp, turn

R4. Ch3, Sk a Ch2 Sp, Sc in next Ch2 Sp, repeat [Ch3, Sc in next Ch2 Sp] 5 times, turn

R5. Ch1, Pc, Ch1, Sc into first Ch3 Sp, repeat [Ch1, Pc, Ch1, Sc into next Ch3 Sp] 5 times, Ch1, Pc, Ch1, Sc into next edge Sp, repeat [Ch3, Sc into next edge Sp] 2 times, turn

The first motif is finished and now comes the pattern for the second and all subsequent motifs.

R6. 6EDc into the first Ch3 Sp, Sl St into first Pc on the previous motif, Ch2, Sl St into the second Pc on the previous motif turn

R7. Puff into first St, repeat [Ch2, Puff in next St] 5 times, Ch2, Sc into next edge Sp, turn

R8. Ch3, Sk a Ch2 Sp, Sc in next Ch2 Sp, repeat [Ch3, Sc in next Ch2 Sp] 4 times, Ch3, Sl St into second Pc of the previous motif, turn

R9. Ch1, Pc, Ch1, Sc into first Ch2 Sp, repeat [ Ch1, Pc, Ch1, Sc into next Ch3 Sp] 5 times, Ch1, Pc, Ch1, Sc into next edge Sp, repeat [Ch3, Sc into next edge Sp] 2 times, turn

Continue making motifs by repeating rows 6-9 until you reach the end of your edge.

You can easily work around corners by decreasing the distance between the edge spaces when you reach a corner.

When you reach the last motif, only work R9 until you finish the last Pc.

Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.

If you want to make the standalone border or if you would rather like to work from charts, they are all available in the PDF version of this pattern.

Wrapping up

If you want to try out other free patterns, check them out below.

If you want to know when I publish more patterns, please sign up to my email updates by clicking on the image below.

Thank you so much for being here with me!

I’ll see you soon with more patterns and articles with tips and tricks.

Hugs,

Andrea

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