Tunisian Crochet Elf Hat or Santa Hat Pattern

Add some festive cheer to the holidays with a Santa hat or an elf hat made in Tunisian crochet.

I designed these with the Christmas markets in mind (here in Germany they are known as Weihnachtsmarkt), strolling among the little houses in city and town centers, lit with thousands of sparkly, warm lights.

The hats have a pointy end that’s just long enough, and come in a variety of sizes, so everyone in the family can have one.

Made in DK weight yarn with a 6 mm hook, these work up fast and are an ideal gift for extended family that you’ll be seeing over the holidays.

You can use a bouncy wool or a soft acrylic for your hat, depending on your budget. They will all look cheerful and will keep your ears warm because of the double brim.

Two adult pointy hats, a bigger one like a Santa hat in red acrylic and a smaller one like an elf hat in green wool. They both have pompoms attached to the pointy end and white textured brims. — Two adult hats, a bigger one in red acrylic and a smaller one in green wool.

Find the printable PDF here:

About the pattern

This is a pattern for cute pointy elf hat with a double brim and a pompom on the end.

Two plain colored yarns will show off your even stitching and short rows allow you to work this hat sideways to take advantage of the vertical stretchiness of Tunisian crochet.

This is the perfect little hat for the holidays, whether you’re in town looking at the pretty lights or out for a stroll in nature.

The double brim will keep your ears warm and cozy on cold winter days.

Measurements

The table has head sizes and finished sizes. The sizes range between head sizes of 41 and 64 cm (between 16″ and 25″) with no ease or slight positive ease. The double brim compensates for the ease.

Each size has a different total length. You can increase the length by adding stitches to the main section of the hat or to the short rows.

Pick your size based on your measurements and desired length.

The stitch and loop counts are shown in pattern as: A, B (C, D) [E, F].

Size	A	B	C	D	E	F
Head (cm)	41	46	52	56	60	64
Hat size (cm)	41	46	52	58	62	65
Head (“)	16	18	20 1/2	22	23 1/2	25
Hat size (“)	16 1/2	18	20 1/2	23	24 1/2	25 1/2
Hat height (cm)	31.5	32	33.5	36	35.5	39.5
Hat height (“)	12 1/2	12 1/2	13 1/2	14 1/2	14	15 1/2
Beginning chain	48	48	50	54	56	60

The repeated wedge will look similar to the schematic below, with long rows at the beginning and subsequent rows that get shorter.

Skill level

Beginner in Tunisian crochet – simple stitches, short rows.

Gauge

15.5 Tss and 15.5 rows for a 10 cm by 10 cm square (4″ by 4″).

Row gauge is more important in this pattern than stitch gauge.

Notions

Yarn: between 200–300 meters size 3 or DK weight wool or acrylic yarn or a mix, with 200 meters per 100 grams;

Color 1 (MC): about 150–230 meters;

Color 2 (CC): about 50–80 meters;

Hook: 6 mm straight Tunisian crochet hook or hook with cable.

Tapestry needle, scissors, tape measure, small kitchen scales.

Observations

This hat is worked flat, then seamed. See the provided tutorial on how to seam up the two edges.

Make a gauge swatch before you start.

Repeats are shown *between asterisks*.

The loop count, including the first loop before the return pass, is shown after the — symbol.

Abbreviations

Ch – chain;
CC – contrast color;
MC – main color;
MR – magic ring;
R – regular return pass: Ch 1, Rep *YO and pull through 2 loops on hook* until 1 loop remains;
Rep – repeat;
Sk – skip;
Sl St – slip stitch;
St – stitch;
SRR– short row return pass: Rep *YO and pull through 2 loops on hook* until 1 loop remains;
Tss – Tunisian simple stitch: insert the hook under the front vertical bar of the next St and pull up a loop;
YO – Yarn over.

Video tutorials

The first link is the right handed version, the second the left handed.

Starting a project in the magic ring.

Tunisian simple stitch

Adding the brim

Forward pass short rows (use the first method)

Weaving in ends in Tunisian crochet

Instructions

Highlight the stitch counts relevant to your chosen size and only follow those instructions.

Place a SM each in the ends of the short rows if it helps you to keep track. Move the stitch markers up after a pattern repeat.

Body

Worked in MC.

Foundation Row. Start with a MR, Ch 46, 46 (48, 52) [54, 58], pick up 46, 46 (48, 52) [54, 58] loops in back bumps of chains, pick up 1 loop in MR, SRR — 48, 48 (50, 54) [56, 60] loops

Leave the MR open until you finish seaming the hat.

Row 2. 43, 43 (45, 49) [51, 55] Tss, SRR — 44, 44 (46, 50) [52, 56] loops

Row 3. 39, 39 (41, 45) [47, 51] Tss, SRR — 40, 40 (42, 46) [48, 52] loops

Row 4. 35, 35 (37, 41) [43, 47] Tss, SRR — 36, 36 (38, 42) [44, 48] loops

Row 5. 31, 31 (33, 37) [39, 43] Tss, SRR — 32, 32 (34, 38) [40, 44] loops

Row 6. 27, 27 (29, 33) [35, 39] Tss, SRR — 28, 28 (30, 34) [36, 40] loops

Row 7. 23, 23 (25, 29) [31, 35] Tss, SRR — 24, 24 (26, 30) [32, 36] loops

Row 8. 19, 19 (21, 25) [27, 31] — 20, 20 (22, 26) [28, 32] loops

Only sizes D, F

Row 9.–, – (–, 21) [–, 27] Tss, SRR — –, – (–, 22) [–, 28] loops

Only size F

Row 10. –, – (–, –) [–, 23] Tss, SRR — –, – (–, –) [–, 24] loops

All sizes

Use these instructions within the repeats:

Row 1. Tss across until you reach the MR, pick up 1 loop in MR, SRR — 48, 48 (50, 54) [56, 60] loops

Repeat Rows 1–8, 8 (8, 9) [8, 10] another 7, 8 (9, 9) [11, 9] times.

Cut the yarn and leave a long tail for seaming.

Brim

Attach CC to the first St on the first row of Body using a Sl St.

Each row corresponds to a row on the body. Pick up the return pass chain (third loop) when working into the first stitch of each row on the body.

Row 1. Ch 9, 10 (11, 12) [13, 13] and pick up 9, 10 (11, 12) [13, 13] loops in back bumps of chains, pick up 1 loop in side of Row 1 of body, SRR — 10, 11 (12, 13) [14, 14] loops

Row 2. 9, 10 (11, 12) [13, 13] Tss, pick up 1 loop in side of next row of body, SRR — 10, 11 (12, 13) [14, 14] loops

Repeat Row 2 until you reach the last row in the body.

Leave a long tail for seaming.

Seaming

Leave the magic ring open until you complete seaming.

Fold the hat with the right side in, aligning the two sides to prepare them for sewing.

You will seam the brim on the “wrong side” of the hat, so when it is folded over there will not be a seam visible.

Make an invisible join at the bottom where the two sides meet, using the tail in CC.

After seaming the brim, weave in the CC end. Then turn the hat the right side out and start seaming with the MC end.

The steps will be demonstrated below for Tss, but are the same for the back of Tss as well.

Steps 1 and 2 show the creation of an invisible join on the edge.

Schematic showing two chains and two arrows with text "Step 1" and "Step 2", showing where to insert the tapestry needle to create an invisible seam on the edge. — Two chains and two arrows with text “Step 1” and “Step 2”, showing where to insert the tapestry needle to create an invisible seam on the edge.

Step 1. Thread the needle with the tail left after the last return pass and go around the second St on the second side.

Step 2. Return to the first side and go back through the first stitch to make the invisible join.

Start seaming the fabric.

Step 1. Go with the needle first through the return pass chain and under the first stitch on the first side.

Schematic showing how the needle should go through the first return pass chain, under the first stitch on the right side of the screen, then under the corresponding stitch on the other side. — The needle should go through the first return pass chain, under the first stitch on the right side of the screen, then under the corresponding stitch on the other side.

Step 2. Go under the corresponding stitch on the second side, then return to the first side.

Schematic showing how the needle goes back to the first side, preparing to go through the return pass chain and under the second stitch. — The needle goes back to the first side, preparing to go through the return pass chain and under the second stitch.

Steps 3-4. Repeat this action, by going through the return pass chain and under the stitch on one side, then under the stitch on the other side.

Schematic showing how the needle goes through the second return pass chain, under the second stitch on the right side of the screen, then under the corresponding stitch on the other side. — The needle goes through the second return pass chain, under the second stitch on the right side of the screen, then under the corresponding stitch on the other side.

Pull on the tail regularly to close the gap. The starting chain should move to the back of the fabric.

Schematic showing how the seamed fabric made up of Tunisian simple stitches should look, with the starting chain to the back of the work. — How the seamed fabric made up of Tunisian simple stitches should look, with the starting chain to the back of the work

Pull the magic ring closed and weave in the ends.

View of inside of elf hat — The seam should be invisible when the hat is worn with the brim folded up.

Other patterns you might like

If you enjoyed this pattern, here are some more Tunisian crochet patterns for the cold weather that you might enjoy:

Cowl and headband set
Beanie pattern in 9 sizes for chunky yarn
Silver Spruce cowl with fun textured stitches
Fingerless mittens with lace
Houndstooth fingerless mittens with video tutorial
Beanie pattern with elastic brim and rounded crown