Tunisian crochet houndstooth pattern for fingerless mittens

Use this free Tunisian crochet houndstooth pattern to make elegant mittens or use the video tutorial by itself and create your own design using this extremely easy stitch pattern that looks woven.

Houndstooth is a classic weaving pattern that has been in use for centuries. This Tunisian crochet houndstooth pattern resembles the simplified version, whereas the more commonly known version is the tweed houndstooth pattern.

They both consist of repeating tiling motifs made in contrasting colors. In the Tunisian crochet version you also want to choose yarns with high contrast and to use a smaller hook than you’d normally use for Tunisian crochet with your chosen yarn.

The best part about this pattern is that it is made up of the easiest Tunisian crochet stitches: the Tunisian simple stitch and the Tunisian purl stitch. It is essentially a honeycomb pattern, but with a little twist because you use one color for the forward pass and another color of yarn for the return pass.

I demonstrate how to change colors consistently for a beautiful edge in the video tutorial linked below.

The pattern for mittens is only one of many potential applications for this stitch pattern. I hope you enjoy it and that you share with me what you make from this stitch pattern.

Two hands wearing white and dark green fingerless mittens with a houndstooth Tunisian crochet pattern and with white bands at the top and bottom.

Video tutorial for Tunisian crochet houndstooth pattern

About the pattern for mittens

These mittens are made flat from the wrist up and seamed. The beautiful lace pattern on the back of the hand resembles rising vapors and the shaped thumb makes these mittens very comfortable to wear.

Any sock weight or size 2 yarn works for this pattern as long as you get gauge. Gauge is important to get well-fitting mittens, so make a gauge swatch before you start.

The pattern is offered in six adult sizes, so you can make fingerless mittens for your entire family.

Flat lay of two overlapping mittens with houndstooth Tunisian crochet stitch pattern in white and dark green. The mittens are rectangular, with a piece of fabric to the side for the thumb.

Size and measurements of the Tunisian crochet mittens

Check out the table for hand circumference and length, as well as thumb circumference.

For thicker thumbs, keep increasing. Remove the extra stitches and rows when binding off to make the section above the thumb.

The sizes range between hand sizes of 15.2 and 27.9 cm (between 6″ and 11″) with no ease.

The table provides approximate sizes for the length of the mitten. For longer hands, add more rows. For shorter hands, skip rows before or after the thumb.

Size	A	B	C	D	E	F
Circumference (cm)	15.2	17.8	20	23	25.4	27.9
Length (cm)	16	17.1	18	19	20.4	21.5
Thumb circ. (cm)	6	6.5	7	7.5	8	8.5
Circumference (“)	6	7	8	9	10	11
Length (“)	6 1/4	6 3/4	7	7 1/2	8	8 1/2
Thumb circ. (“)	2 1/4	2 1/2	2 3/4	3	3 1/4	3 1/4

The stitch and loop counts are shown in pattern as follows: A, B (C, D) [E, F].

Notions needed to make houndstooth mittens

Use a springy or elastic yarn with high twist, such as a high twist merino yarn, as this property of the yarn will make the mittens slightly elastic and more comfortable to put on and wear.

Yarn: DK weight or size 3, with 200-250 meters per 100 grams, in 2 colors; approximate usage per size: 40, 46 (50, 56) [60, 66] g per pair or 100, 110 (120, 140) [150, 160] meters (half for each color);

Hooks: 5.5 mm Tunisian crochet or straight hook; 3.5 mm regular crochet hook.

Tapestry needle, scissors.

Optional:2 stitch markers for the thumb, 1 m elastic thread for the cuff.

Abbreviations

C1, C2 – yarn colors;
Ch – chain;
Fs – first stitch: the 2 vertical bars at the beginning of the row;
Ls – Tunisian last stitch – put hook behind the 2 vertical loops at the end of the row, YO and pull up a loop;
R – regular Tunisian crochet return pass: Ch 1, Rep [YO and pull through 2 loops on hook] until you are left with only one stitch;
Sc – single crochet (double crochet in UK terms);
Sl St – slip stitch;
St(s) – stitch(es);
Tks – Tunisian knit stitch: insert the hook between the 2 vertical bars of the next St, YO and pull up a loop;
Tps – Tunisian purl stitch: YU, insert the hook under the vertical bar of the next St, YO and pull up a loop;
Tss – Tunisian simple stitch: insert the hook under the vertical bar of the next St, YO and pull up a loop;
YO – Yarn over;
YU – Yarn under: bring the yarn under and to the front of the hook.

Observations

This pattern is written in Tunisian crochet terms, which are identical in US and UK crochet terminology.
Each row consists of a forward pass and a return pass. You always work the forward pass and the return pass of each row in different colors.
The mittens are worked flat and from the wrist up.
After the mittens are complete, they are sewn together with a mattress stitch and the seam should be towards the top of the palm.
If you are left-handed, the instructions for the left mitten are your instructions for the right mitten and vice-versa.
This pattern is not suitable for working in the round.
For people with shorter or longer fingers you can add or remove some rows before the thumb or after the thumb.
Instructions for all sizes are provided with the following structure: A , B (C, D) [E, F]. Highlight the row number and stitch for the size you will be working on.
At the end of each row, you have the loop counts for the current row for each size after the forward pass after the — symbol.

Gauge

20 stitches and 19 rows for a 10 cm by 10 cm square (4″ by 4″).

Make a gauge swatch by following these instructions.

Row 1. Ch 25, pick up 25 loops in the back bumps of the chains, R — 26 loops

Row 2. Rep [1 Tss, 1 Tps] 12 times, Ls, R — 26 loops

Row 3. Rep [1 Tps, 1 Tss] 12 times, Ls, R — 26 loops

Repeat Rows 2-3 another 12 times for a total of 27 rows.

Block the swatch by washing it and laying it flat to dry.

Measure a 10 by 10 cm (4″ by 4″) square in the middle of the swatch and count the stitches and rows.

If you get fewer stitches and rows, go down a hook size (0.5 mm), if available, and make another swatch.

If you get more stitches and rows, go up a hook size (0.5 mm), if available, and make another swatch.

Repeat the swatching process until you reach the recommended gauge. Make a note of the hook size used.

Instructions

Left mitten

Right for left handed.

Start with a slip knot on your hook in C1.

Foundation Row or Row 1 all sizes. Ch 29, 35 (39, 45) [49, 55] and pick up 29, 35 (39, 45) [49, 55] loops in back bumps — 30, 36 (40, 46) [50, 56] loops

Cast on 30, 36 (40, 46) [50, 56] Sts in your preferred cast on method.

Video about casting on

Switch to C2.

Return pass. Ch 1, Rep [YO and pull through 2 loops on hook] until you are left with only one stitch.

Row 2. Rep [1 Tss, 1 Tps] until the end of the row — 30, 36 (40, 46) [50, 56] loops

To make the Ls, insert the hook under the vertical bar of C1 and bring the C1 working yarn over the hook, YO and pick up a loop of C2.

Switch the yarn color and do the return pass with C1.

Row 3. Rep [1 Tps, 1 Tss] until the end of the row — 30, 36 (40, 46) [50, 56] loops

To make the Ls, insert the hook under the vertical bar of C2 and bring the C2 working yarn over the hook, YO and pick up a loop of C1.

Switch the yarn color and do the return pass with C2.

Repeat Rows2-3 another 2, 2 (2, 2) [3, 3] times.

For a longer mitten base, add more repeats here. If you want to add ribbing to the bottom edge at the end of the project, continue in pattern.

Continue switching the yarn colors at the end of each row.

Thumb increases

Row 8, 8 (8, 8) [10, 10]. {1 Tss, 1 Tks} in the 1st St (not Fs), 1 Tps, {1 Tks, 1 Tss} in next St, 1 Tps, Rep [1 Tss, 1 Tps] until the end of the row, Ls, R — 32, 38 (42, 48) [52, 58] loops

Row 9, 9 (9, 9) [10, 10]. {1 Tss, 1 Tks} in the 1st St (not Fs), 1 Tps, 1 Tss, 1 Tps, {1 Tks, 1 Tss} in next St, 1 Tss, Rep [1 Tps, 1 Tss] until the end of the row, Ls, R — 34, 40 (44, 50) [54, 60] loops

Row 10, 10 (10, 10) [11, 11].{1 Tss, 1 Tks} in the 1st St (not Fs), 1 Tps, Rep [1 Tss, 1 Tps] 2 times, {1 Tks, 1 Tss} in next St, 1 Tps, Rep [1 Tss, 1 Tps] until the end of the row, Ls, R — 36, 42 (46, 52) [56, 62] loops

Row 11, 11 (11, 11) [12, 12].{1 Tss, 1 Tks} in the 1st St (not Fs), 1 Tps, Rep [1 Tss, 1 Tps] 3 times, {1 Tks, 1 Tss} in next St, 1 Tss, Rep [1 Tps, 1 Tss] until the end of the row, Ls, R — 38, 44 (48, 54) [58, 64] loops

Row 12, 12 (12, 12) [13, 13].{1 Tss, 1 Tks} in the 1st St (not Fs), 1 Tps, Rep [1 Tss, 1 Tps] 4 times, {1 Tks, 1 Tss} in next St, 1 Tps, Rep [1 Tss, 1 Tps] until the end of the row, Ls, R — 40, 46 (50, 56) [60, 66] loops

Row 13, 13 (13, 13) [14, 14].{1 Tss, 1 Tks} in the 1st St (not Fs), 1 Tps, Rep [1 Tss, 1 Tps] 5 times, {1 Tks, 1 Tss} in next St, 1 Tss, Rep [1 Tps, 1 Tss] until the end of the row, Ls, R — 42, 48 (52, 58) [62, 68] loops

Row 14, 14 (14, 14) [15, 15].{1 Tss, 1 Tks} in the 1st St (not Fs), 1 Tps, Rep [1 Tss, 1 Tps] 6 times, {1 Tks, 1 Tss} in next St, 1 Tps, Rep [1 Tss, 1 Tps] until the end of the row, Ls, R — 44, 50 (54, 60) [64, 70] loops

Row –, – (15, 15) [16, 16].{1 Tss, 1 Tks} in the 1st St (not Fs), 1 Tps, Rep [1 Tss, 1 Tps] 7 times, {1 Tks, 1 Tss} in next St, 1 Tss, Rep [1 Tps, 1 Tss] until the end of the row, Ls, R — -, – (56, 62) [66, 72] loops

Row –, – (-, -) [17, 17].{1 Tss, 1 Tks} in the 1st St (not Fs), 1 Tps, Rep [1 Tss, 1 Tps] 8 times, {1 Tks, 1 Tss} in next St, 1 Tps, Rep [1 Tss, 1 Tps] until the end of the row, Ls, R — -, – (-, -) [68, 74] loops

Palm

Bind off 14, 14 (16, 16) [18, 18] stitches by doing 1 Sl St in each St.

Row 15, 15 (16, 16) [18, 18]. Rep [1 Tss, 1 Tps] until the end of the row, Ls, R — 30, 36 (40, 46) [50, 56] loops

Row 16, 16 (17, 17) [19, 19]. Rep [1 Tps, 1 Tss] until the end of the row, Ls, R— 30, 36 (40, 46) [50, 56] loops

Rows 17, 17 (18, 18) [20, 20] – 22, 22 (23, 23) [25, 25]. Repeat the previous 2 rows.

If you need more length in the palm area, add more repeats. If you want the palm area to be shorter, skip a few rows.

Bind off in pattern.

Right mitten

Left for left handed.

Start with a slip knot on your hook in C1.

Foundation Row or Row 1 all sizes. Ch 29, 35 (39, 45) [49, 55] and pick up 29, 35 (39, 45) [49, 55] loops in back bumps — 30, 36 (40, 46) [50, 56] loops

Cast on 30, 36 (40, 46) [50, 56] Sts in your preferred cast on method.

Switch to C2.

Return pass. Ch 1, Rep [YO and pull through 2 loops on hook] until you are left with only one stitch.

Row 2. Rep [1 Tss, 1 Tps] until the end of the row — 30, 36 (40, 46) [50, 56] loops

To make the Ls, insert the hook under the vertical bar of C1 and bring the C1 working yarn over the hook, YO and pick up a loop of C2.

Switch the yarn color and do the return pass with C1.

Row 3. Rep [1 Tps, 1 Tss] until the end of the row — 30, 36 (40, 46) [50, 56] loops

To make the Ls, insert the hook under the vertical bar of C2 and bring the C2 working yarn over the hook, YO and pick up a loop of C1.

Switch the yarn color and do the return pass with C2.

Repeat Rows2-3 another 2, 2 (2, 2) [3, 3] times.

For a longer mitten base, add more repeats here. If you want to add ribbing to the bottom edge at the end of the project, continue in pattern.

Continue switching the yarn colors at the end of each row.

Thumb increases

Row 8, 8 (8, 8) [10, 10]. Rep [1 Tss, 1 Tps] 12, 15 (17, 20) [22, 25] times, 1 Tss, {1 Tss, 1 Tks} in next St, 1 Tss, {1 Tks, 1 Tss} in next St, Ls, R — 32, 38 (42, 48) [52, 58] loops

Row 9, 9 (9, 9) [10, 10]. Rep [1 Tps, 1 Tss] 12, 15 (17, 20) [22, 25] times, 1 Tps, {1 Tss, 1 Tks} in next St, 1 Tss, 1 Tps, 1 Tss, {1 Tks, 1 Tss} in next St, Ls, R — 34, 40 (44, 50) [54, 60] loops

Row 10, 10 (10, 10) [11, 11].Rep [1 Tss, 1 Tps] 12, 15 (17, 20) [22, 25] times, 1 Tss, {1 Tss, 1 Tks} in next St, 1 Tss, Rep [1 Tps, 1 Tss] 2 times, {1 Tks, 1 Tss} in next St, Ls, R — 36, 42 (46, 52) [56, 62] loops

Row 11, 11 (11, 11) [12, 12]. Rep [1 Tps, 1 Tss] 12, 15 (17, 20) [22, 25] times, 1 Tps, {1 Tss, 1 Tks} in next St, 1 Tss, Rep [1 Tps, 1 Tss] 3 times, {1 Tks, 1 Tss} in next St, Ls, R — 38, 44 (48, 54) [58, 64] loops

Row 12, 12 (12, 12) [13, 13].Rep [1 Tss, 1 Tps] 12, 15 (17, 20) [22, 25] times, 1 Tss, {1 Tss, 1 Tks} in next St, 1 Tss, Rep [1 Tps, 1 Tss] 4 times, {1 Tks, 1 Tss} in next St, Ls, R — 40, 46 (50, 56) [60, 66] loops

Row 13, 13 (13, 13) [14, 14]. Rep [1 Tps, 1 Tss] 12, 15 (17, 20) [22, 25] times, 1 Tps, {1 Tss, 1 Tks} in next St, 1 Tss, Rep [1 Tps, 1 Tss] 5 times, {1 Tks, 1 Tss} in next St, Ls, R — 42, 48 (52, 58) [62, 68] loops

Row 14, 14 (14, 14) [15, 15].Rep [1 Tss, 1 Tps] 12, 15 (17, 20) [22, 25] times, 1 Tss, {1 Tss, 1 Tks} in next St, 1 Tss, Rep [1 Tps, 1 Tss] 6 times, {1 Tks, 1 Tss} in next St, Ls, R — 44, 50 (54, 60) [64, 70] loops

Row –, – (15, 15) [16, 16]. Rep [1 Tps, 1 Tss] -, – (17, 20) [22, 25] times, 1 Tps, {1 Tss, 1 Tks} in next St, 1 Tss, Rep [1 Tps, 1 Tss] 7 times, {1 Tks, 1 Tss} in next St, Ls, R — -, – (56, 62) [66, 72] loops

Row –, – (-, -) [17, 17].Rep [1 Tss, 1 Tps] -, – (-, -) [22, 25] times, 1 Tss, {1 Tss, 1 Tks} in next St, 1 Tss, Rep [1 Tps, 1 Tss] 8 times, {1 Tks, 1 Tss} in next St, Ls, R — -, – (-, -) [68, 74] loops

Palm

Cut the second yarn from the end of the row and reattach it when starting the return pass for this row.

Row 15, 15 (16, 16) [18, 18]. Rep [1 Tss, 1 Tps] 14, 17 (19, 22) [24, 27] times, 1 Tss (counts as Ls), R — 30, 36 (40, 46) [50, 56] loops

Row 16, 16 (17, 17) [19, 19]. Rep [1 Tps, 1 Tss] until the end of the row, Ls, R — 30, 36 (40, 46) [50, 56] loops

Row 17, 17 (18, 18) [20, 20]. Rep [1 Tss, 1 Tps] until the end of the row, Ls, R — 30, 36 (40, 46) [50, 56] loops

Rows 18, 18 (19, 19) [21, 21] – 22, 22 (23, 23) [25, 25]. Repeat the previous 2 rows.

If you need more length in the palm area, add more repeats. If you want the palm area to be shorter, skip a few rows.

Bind off in pattern.

Finishing

Seam the mittens invisibly using the yarn ends, folding the thumb triangle so that the two lines of decreases are parallel with the side of the mitten. See the seaming instructions for extra details.

Weave in ends and optionally use an elastic thread to go around the inside of the cuff 4 or more times, to make the cuff elastic.

Here is how to add elastic.

Attach yarn at the top of the thumb hole, next to the seam at the top part of the mitten, then use the smaller hook and Sc (Dc in UK terms) around, making one St in each Tss. Sl St in the first St when you return to the beginning.

Make 2 or 3 rows in Sc, depending on the desired height of the thumb. Finish with an invisible seam at the top. Weave in the ends.